Ardfert - A Historical Introduction
Ardfert Parish encompasses the area around Ardfert and Kilmoyley in the North of County Kerry. Ardfert Village sprung up around the ancient church of St. Brendan, who was reputedly born nearby in 484 A.D. For a long time Ardfert was the county capital, it being a major ecclesiastical centre. This lofty standing continued until the late 16th century, at which time changing ecclesiastical circumstances forced it into a gradual decline.
St. Brendan (484 – 577 A.D.), patron saint of the Diocese of Kerry, had definite connections with Ardfert Parish but he spent little of his life there. His foundation of a monastery there was very significant and the area has several place names associated with him. They include - Tobar na Molt / Wether’s Well (place of his baptism); St. Brendan's Well in the townland of Brandonwell; St. Brendan's Church ruins at Barrow and Tearman Erc at Lerrig. The feast day of St. Brendan is on May 16th each year and is usually celebrated locally with a mass at Tobar na Molt.
Ardfert Cathedral ruins dominate the village centre. Originally founded by St. Brendan in the 6th century, it has survived many spates of plunder and pillage right down to 1641 when it finally fell victim to Cromwellite supporters and was burned down, leaving it beyond repair and leaving it in it present ruinous state. It is now a National Monument and for many years little other than routine maintenance was carried out. In 1989 a major restoration programme took place culminating in the South Transept being restored and finally opening as a visitors centre in 1994.
An Ardfert Friary ruin to the east of the village is also a National Monument. It was founded circa 1253 by Thomas Fitzmaurice, first Lord of Kerry. In the village stands the Glandore Gate, an imposing gateway to the former Crosbie estate. It was built as its inscription states ‘by Patrick Dineen and his sons John and Patrick, natives of Ardfert, 1880 – 83’. It is now in private ownership and opens as a café and bookshop during the summer. The Fountain, a 12-foot high stone monument at the very centre of the village was built in 1901 as a gift to the village by the Crosbie family. It once served as the only source of fresh water for village residents, right down to the early 1970’s. The Brick Hall, a red brick building on the Causeway road was built in 1914 on a plot of land donated by the Crosbies. It is now in private ownership.
There are 2 Churches in the Parish, one at Ardfert Village and the second at Kilmoyley. St. Brendan’s Church, Ardfert was built between 1853 and 1855 under Rev. John O'Connell, P.P. The foundation stone for the proposed new chapel was laid on Tuesday, May 3rd, 1853 and within two years the church was completed. It was consecrated on Wednesday 16th May 1855 by Bishop Denis Moriarty. The Church itself is in Gothic style and was designed by architect J.J. McCarthy of Rathmines, Dublin.
Sacred Heart Church, Kilmoyley was built between 1871 and 1873. Rev. Denis O'Donoghue was appointed as parish priest of Ardfert and Kilmoyley in 1866 and he immediately saw a need to build a similar structure to the new Ardfert Church in the other half of the parish. The old mud walled, thatch roofed building, cruciform shaped and built in 1806, had outlived its abilities. The P.P. obtained 'a free grant forever of half an acre of land, in a convenient position, from the owner of the soil, Mr. R.S. Oliver. He procured a plan from Mr. Ashlin, 'a Dublin architect' and the foundation stone was laid in March 1871. The parishioners drew all the sand, slate, timber and stone themselves from Tralee and from the quarries and the Church was consecrated on Sunday, October 5th, 1873. It was the year of Dedication of Ireland to the Sacred Heart so it was decided to name it the Sacred Heart Church, Kilmoyley. Rev. Dean Mawe, Vicar General, performed the dedication.
Ardfert Parish is notable as the location of one of only two Diocesan Retreat Centres, located at Abbeylands, less than a mile from Ardfert Village. Originally the residence of the agent for the local Crosbie landlord family, ‘'Abbeylands' was built in 1870. It was opened as the Ardfert Retreat Centre in 1981.
Casement’s Fort to the west is named after the Irish patriot Roger Casement who was arrested there on Good Friday morning, 1916. A memorial to Casement was erected at Carrahane and unveiled in 1968.
Landmarks from the past that have phased out include Ardfert Railway Station at Tubrid where the last train ran in 1973 and the Crosbie Estate House at Abbeylands which was burned by the I.R.A. in 1922.
Further details on the history of Ardfert are available in the book ‘Ardfert in Times Past’, revised edition 1999 [ISBN 0 9515736 16].
Further details on Ardfert Church are available in the book ‘Ardfert Church 150 – A History of St. Brendan’s Church, Ardfert, Co. Kerry 1855 - 2005’ which was published in 2005 to commemorate it’s 150th anniversary [ISBN 0 951573624].
Both are available by contacting Tommy O'Connor, tommyoconnor@ireland.com.